The History of Surfing Author: Matt Warshaw | Language: English | ISBN:
B004X7666I | Format: EPUB
The History of Surfing Description
Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.
- File Size: 11408 KB
- Print Length: 495 pages
- Publisher: Chronicle Books LLC (April 29, 2011)
- Sold by: Amazon Digital Services, Inc.
- Language: English
- ASIN: B004X7666I
- Text-to-Speech: Enabled
X-Ray:
- Lending: Enabled
- Amazon Best Sellers Rank: #192,821 Paid in Kindle Store (See Top 100 Paid in Kindle Store)
- #92
in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Outdoor Recreation > Surfing
- #92
in Books > Sports & Outdoors > Outdoor Recreation > Surfing
I am not a surfer. But I am a history buff who was given an advance copy of this gorgeous book. I'm only on page 174, but I have to stop and share my excitement about The History of Surfing. How can you not love a book that describes the crowds at surf movies of the late 1950's like this:
"Firecrackers were lit and rolled across the floor to the next row of seats. Bottlecaps zipped through the air. High decibel beer-belches rang out. A motorcyclist might blow in through the side door, ride up one aisle and down the other, then gun back out the way he came.
"What older surfers invariably describe first when talking about early surf movies is the tearing thunderclap of cheers and whistles and stomping feet that began when the lights dimmed and the first blue-green image lip up the screen--a roaring noise signifying not just a manic willingness to be entertained, but the pure joy of an otherwise staunchly nonaligned multitude coming together briefly, powerfully, ecstatically as a group."
Now that's the way to write history. Kevin Starr, California State Historian, eat your heart out.
By Mimi Kalland
This is it, the definitive story of surfing, surfers and beach culture.
It's a big thick textbook like collection of information, photos, stories and anecdotes.
Warshaw has set the bar so high with this work, I doubt anyone will ever have the balls to approach the subject again.
I will be reading and re-reading this one for a long time to come
By waterman22
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